A cheerfully scruffy little izakaya tucked inside a covered shopping arcade, where a hand-lettered senbero sign pulls drinkers in from early afternoon. Inside it is loud, smoky and packed with regulars and travellers sitting elbow to elbow. The owner fishes himself and brings the catch straight to the kitchen, so the sashimi and butter-grilled fish change with the day. Alongside them the cooking swings into Chinese territory with gyoza, lamb skewers and garlic fried rice, next to Okinawan staples such as goya champuru, sea grapes and pickled island shallots.