Kijima is a nostalgic, Showa-era yoshoku diner reached via a small garden path off Keiyo Road in Sumida, its red awning marking a hidden-away dining room with well-worn, retro decor. Regulars come for hearty, home-style Western-Japanese plates - thick handmade hamburger steak in demi-glace sauce, butter- or garlic-fried pork loin, and crispy fried cutlets - served as teishoku sets with rice and miso soup at famously low prices. Seating is at numbered tables; diners order and pay in cash at the counter before eating, then clear their own trays. It is a beloved, unpretentious neighborhood institution near Ryogoku, known for huge portions and long lunchtime queues.