Usamitei Matsubaya

Tucked into a shopping arcade in Minami-Semba, a few minutes from Shinsaibashi, Usamitei Matsubaya has served udon since 1893 and is widely credited as the birthplace of kitsune udon. The dish began as a side plate of sweet-simmered fried tofu meant for inari-zushi; regulars kept dropping the tofu into their noodle broth until the kitchen started serving it that way from the start. The long, narrow dining room keeps a Showa-era retro feel, with overflow seating upstairs when the ground floor fills at lunch. Alongside the signature kitsune udon, the kitchen also serves the more unusual ojiya udon, noodles simmered in a small iron pot with egg, chicken, fish cake, and shrimp.